Cape Town - From the eyes of an outsider

A sign from the District 6 museum, a reminder of one of the many communities devastated during Apartheid.

Cape Town is unlike any place I have ever experienced. Coming from the US, I recognize that I do not understand all of the history in this area, but I am doing what I can to learn through Dr. Mandela's autobiography, trips to a variety of different neighborhoods and museums, a class on culture and language, and talking to people from different races and classes across the city.

On one hand, it has mountain ranges, botanical gardens, beaches, wineries, food, and culture on a level of no other city in the world.

On the other hand, one look at the gentrification, race relations, homelessness, and criminal activity will tell you a completely different story.

Now that I am three weeks into living here, I think it would be good to breakdown what stands out to me in the context of what I have seen thus far. 

Segregation & Economic Disparities

I have never seen such intense economic disparities within a city. Worldwide, South Africa ranks as having the widest income gap of any country in the world. In the center of the city, the areas immediately surrounding Table Mountain, and those with the closest proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, there are new apartment buildings, families playing with their dogs outside, and an overwhelmingly white population. Suburbs surrounding these areas see mixed, middle class populations, much like you would see in many other cities around the world.

However, just to the east of the city live exclusively minority communities in Townships that were largely established during the Apartheid regime. Many of these are host to large groups of informal housing structures (i.e. shacks, huts), homeless children, and just an overall failure of the social welfare system. I sometimes wonder what the average traveler experiences in a vacation here, if they even know how the majority of people are living. I wonder what real efforts the government is making, because I am not sure I would feel comfortable existing within a system that is not doing all it can to address such disparities. 

Costs of Services & Exchange Rate

100 rand does not go very far: worth about $7.55.

Although it is a marker of their declining economy, as an American I am afforded the privilege of extremely cheap prices everywhere I turn. It is very evident that the people who are able to earn US salaries and live here are at an extreme advantage. Currently, the USD is valued at 13.48 South African Rand (ZAR). Fun fact: All of the bills have Nelson Mandela's face on them. Inflation is an issue, so things are not as cheap as they could be, but last week I went to a bar with all-you can-eat gourmet pizza & cocktails for $7.42 USD. A nice steak dinner will run you for about $6.50. On Monday, I got an amazing haircut and hair wash that cost me $4.50. Easily one of the great redeeming qualities of bringing a US salary to a middle-income country. 

Fear of Others

The bars on my windows are about as low-security as it gets here.

Possibly the most surprising thing for me since coming here is the level of security precautions people take for the homes and businesses. At my University, the on-campus and accompanying buildings are open from 8am-10pm, and the only security after that is a lock on the door, if that. Here, there is a fence with barb wire which surround my office, a security guard, and multiple locking systems for each individual building within the gated area. Similar for my housing situation: I was told by locals of all races and professional levels that not having a locked fence above eye level is almost seen as inviting criminals into your home. These fears are not completely unfounded, but it is truly a flawed world when shelter is not enough to protect us. 

At the same time, Cape Town reminds me so much of home. 

Braai 

In my first full day, I visited with a few people from Cape Town in a township called Gugulethu. The first thing I remember hearing when I arrived was J. Cole, which was somewhat poetic given that I go to school an hour away from his hometown. Later, we went to a Braai (barbeque) in another town called Khayelitsha. Being there, I was reminded of a typical day party I would have went to in school at Miami - the atmosphere, the music, and everything else. People were dancing, singing along to all of their favorite songs, and catching up with old friends.

The difference: The vast majority of people were speaking the local language isiXhosa. Those who weren't had the Afrikaans accent, which I am still adjusting to, so I mostly pretended like I knew what was going on and continued eating.

Vote of no Confidence

The people are constantly talking on the issues they have with their president. People of all creeds and colors are unsuccessfully trying to get him removed from office. They believe he is corrupt, unfit for the presidency, and being influenced by outsiders. Sound familiar?

The difference: Here, the ruling party does not have the support of the wealthy, and the 10% of the population which controls 80% of the money are the white minority. While many blacks are upset with President Zuma and the African National Congress, they are more concerned with allowing the Democratic Alliance - the party of Apartheid - to regain power.

P.S. I am now in the southern hemisphere, which means I am spending the heart of Winter in Cape Town. While its August for everyone else, it might as well be February here - mornings and evenings in the 40s and daytime in the 60s on good days. I came to Geneva with lots of warm clothes in the hopes of going skiing and spending time in the mountains, in reality, there will be snow on Cape Town's mountains this weekend, and I will be using those clothes to survive the ice cold buildings - there is no central heating, anywhere.

A selfie taken in a very cold bedroom.

Realtime weather report.